Exploring the unique journey of a fifth-generation rhubarb farm
Nestled within the scenic landscapes of Southern Ontario lies a farm whose legacy spans more than a century. This is not just any farm, it is one of the largest independent rhubarb farms in Canada, and one of largest in North America – a beacon of agricultural heritage. With a rich history dating back to 1887, this family-run enterprise has seen tremendous evolution and diversification, yet its heart remains steadfast in the cultivation of rhubarb.
“Our vision is: Healthy Soil. Healthy Food. Healthy Communities. We are a family run business and bring in 12 international agriculture workers from Trinidad each year,” said Jeannette French, wife to Brian Lennox, and today’s leaders of Lennox Farms.
The Origins and Evolution
The journey began in 1887 in Etobicoke, where the great-great-grandfather of the current generation started market gardening to supply the Toronto area. Over the decades, the family faced numerous challenges, including relocations to Huttonville in the 1950s and their current location in Melancthon in 1988. Despite these upheavals, their commitment to rhubarb remained unwavering.
The farm, now operated by the fifth generation, has always had rhubarb as its primary focus. The current generation, who grew up working on the farm during summers, has seen significant changes and has played a pivotal role in its modernization and expansion. Jeannette took a full-time role in the farm operation since 2020, with Brian having started on the farm right out of school and spent 26 years on it. The pair purchased the business from his parents in 2022, and they have seamlessly merged traditional practices with contemporary agricultural techniques.
“We often describe our farm as a rhubarb farm, although we grow so much more,” Jeannette said. “We have been in the rhubarb business for more than 125 years. The farm started commercially growing rhubarb around 1900,” Jeannette said.
“We are the lone forced rhubarb farm in Canada,” Brian said. We grow approximately 90 acres of field rhubarb from May to July, and have five forcing sheds where we grow Forced, Hothouse and Winter rhubarb from February through May. Our business has changed a lot in the last 30 years and we now focus our rhubarb sales on the fresh market. But we also process some rhubarb for bakeries, preserve makers, wineries, cider makers and more.”
Brian and Jeannette press juice and make their own rhubarb preserves.
Rhubarb: From Field to Fork
Rhubarb, often associated with nostalgic memories of grandmothers’ kitchens, is a perennial plant known for its nutritional benefits. Rich in calcium, vitamin A, K, and fibre, rhubarb is a versatile crop that can produce year after year once established. The farm boasts some plants that are more than 20 years old, and the root stock has been in use for generations.
The farm cultivates approximately 90 acres of field rhubarb from May to July and operates five forcing sheds to grow “forced” or “hothouse” rhubarb from February through May. This unique method involves growing the rhubarb outside for two years before bringing the roots into heated sheds to grow in the dark during winter, producing tender, less tart stalks.
“Up until the 1970’s there were 70 growers in Ontario,” Brian said. “And now it is just down to us left doing it. It got so expensive in the 70’s and 80’s, oil and gas got so expensive, buildings weren’t insulated, it wasn’t worth doing it. Two of the other farms left in the business retired and we took on their load as well and are growing more than 12,000 square feet now.”
Varieties and Innovation
The farm grows several varieties of rhubarb, including Victoria, Sutton Seedless, and German Wine, each with distinct characteristics and uses. While Victoria is known for its thick green stalks, Sutton Seedless is less stringy and has fewer seed stalks, making it ideal for processing. German Wine, with its beautiful red skin, performs exceptionally well on the current farmland.
Innovation continues with experimental varieties like Connecticut Field and Canada Red, which are being tested for their suitability to the unique forcing process. The farm’s commitment to maintaining a good supply of root stock ensures the ongoing health and productivity of their rhubarb fields.
“It’s really hard to get your hands on different varieties,” Brian said. “We have some great varieties from Europe and England that are hard to get your hands on. And it is night and day the difference between forced and outside grown Rhubarb. Forced Rhubarb is tender, less tart, not stringy, Because it doesn’t have the use of sunshine for Photosynthesis, it has less oxalic acid, so you get the Rhubarb flavour but you don’t get all the tartness that goes with it.”
Diversification and Community Engagement
The farm is not just about rhubarb. Over the years, it has diversified to include a wholesale vegetable operation, an on-farm market, a commercial kitchen producing preserves, baked goods, and more. The farm also hosts agri-tourism events, including workshops, tours, and field-to-fork experiences, fostering a deeper connection between the community and the land.
Education is a key aspect of the farm’s vision. By offering tours and workshops, the farm provides a platform for sharing knowledge about sustainable farming practices, the history of rhubarb cultivation, and the importance of healthy soil, food, and communities.
The farm conducts on farm tours, from the field workshops on rhubarb and asparagus, and field to fork experiences that will educate, inspire, and fill your belly.
The Field to Fork journey is where you have the opportunity to savour the freshest, homegrown ingredients prepared by local master chefs.
“From our farm fields to your plate, discover the stories behind the food, meet the growers, and indulge in a multi-course feast under the open sky,” the Lennox operators said. Each event is a unique dining experience with live music, fresh food and all the proceeds from the events going to the Shelburne Food Bank.
The event takes place at the farm and runs from 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
The next Field to Fork experience is scheduled for June 21.
Growing Rhubarb: A Detailed Guide
Growing rhubarb successfully starts with choosing the right varieties. Experimental varieties like Connecticut Field and Canada Red are also under trial to assess their adaptability and productivity. Securing different varieties can be challenging, especially with some exceptional ones in Europe and England proving hard to obtain.
One of the unique aspects of rhubarb cultivation is the “forced rhubarb” method, where the plants grow in the dark, resulting in pink stalks and small yellow leaves. This method creates tender, less tart rhubarb with reduced oxalic acid, offering the quintessential rhubarb flavour without the sharp tartness.
Preparation is key, starting with selecting good root stock. Each spring, an acre and a half are dug out to plant five acres. The ideal root size is one larger than two fists, ensuring it’s healthy and robust. The fields are prepared with ample manure, and planting begins as early as possible, ideally in the first week of May in Southern Ontario.
Weed management is crucial to maintaining healthy rhubarb fields. After planting, it’s essential to avoid harvesting for the first two to three seasons to allow the plants to establish firmly. Properly managed fields can thrive for up to 20 years. Harvesting involves pulling, not cutting, the thick stalks, typically conducted once a week during the six to eight-week season, ensuring the plants are not over-harvested, which can harm their longevity. The farm will harvest daily for a six to eight week season outdoors. Harvesting an average of 6,000 pounds a day.
They will only harvest 50 to 70 per cent of the crown to leave the balance to rejuvenate the crown for next season.
Looking Ahead
As the farm looks to the future, it remains grounded in its rich heritage while continuing to innovate and diversify. The family’s dedication to rhubarb and sustainable farming practices ensures that this legacy will endure for generations to come.
In a world where the agricultural landscape is constantly evolving, this farm stands as a testament to the enduring power of tradition, innovation, and community. The rhubarb legacy is not just about a crop; it is about nurturing a way of life that values hard work, sustainability, and the joy of growing something that brings pleasure and nutrition to countless people.